Kayaking, South China Sea

In the morning it is clear that rats do live below deck in the hull which is awash with water and only roughly separated from the cabins by floorboards which are sparsely spaced – in fact roughly rat-sized spacing has been used. However the sun is hot today and the sky clear and whether there are rats in the cabin or not, we don’t care, we’re off kayaking.
First we have to do a quick walking tour of Cat Ba island which although it is a national park, seems to be just a rubbish-filled and rather poverty stricken place for 5000 Vietnamese to live providing beach facilities and brothels to miserable tourists. We are glad to depart the searing shores and get on the water.
We head through a much longer cave section by kayak for a bit and then break for lunch. Afterwards we’re off for a two-hour marathon to a beach where the boat will eventually meet us. By now Pam and I have got to grips with the bizarre steering mechanism of these boats and have a relatively reliable method which with considerable extra effort can both propel the kayak forward and keep it on a straight course. As it turns out we then make a powerful pairing and are often in the lead, steaming ahead. It is sometimes painful to keep up for a long period – you have to jam your crossed legs into the boat to keep stable and they get quite sore. The sun is also extremely hot – searing down on us. We have wet-shirts and hats covering every bit of exposed flesh.

Team photo on fabulous beach

There’s a tough bit where we near the open sea and the water is very choppy. On two occasions I go overboard after concentration lapses and luckily have the presence of mind in both cases to keep hold of both my sunglasses and my shirt as I go over. It’s great fun though and the scenery and setting could not be bettered. We see no one else all day and the only boats are enormous merchant ships and tankers bound for Halong City. The South China Sea once again holds a glamourous and mysterious image for me.
When we stop on a tiny beach area I cut my foot on some sharp coral and can at last claim my ‘Nam scar (and some sympathy from the three girls). The beach is truly glorious and only the photos can do it justice. It’s been a fun day.
The sun sets over a surrounded lagoon where we spend a second night, this time further from the rats and nearer the cool dark sky on the top deck. Coming to in the morning is just magical with the cool breeze and low humidity of 6am a welcome experience. This place is wonderful. I want to live here.

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