Deserted headland, on way to our hut

We have arranged to escape the hotel (having had our laundry done) and negotiated an out of season discount on one of a number of tiny beach huts laid along the headland cliff. Our hut is up a steep slope but has a gorgeous sea view and lots of privacy. It is very basic with just a table, a bed, a bench outside on the ‘veranda’, an electric light and a fan. There is a small toilet next door shared with our neighbours and a trough full of spring water for showers. We’re camping now.
The mattress is a bit damp since it hasn’t been cleaned up for the start of the season yet. A dose of Lizzie’s sample-perfume over the mattress is enough to make it appealing to lie on! We head off for curry and a host of items from a little shop including playing cards, candles and incense sticks. Then we sit out on the veranda, covered in unromantic DEET but with candle lit ice-cold beers and a palm-fringed view of the sea below. Can’t say fairer than that.
Our neighbours are a Dutch couple who’ve been touring Africa for seven months but have come to India to finish their year off work. We tell them Goa is an easy place to start.

Getting back to nature

We spend the days walking along the headland, sun bathing, crashing through jungle, bathing in cool pools and enjoying the many cafes. All around us people are building their chalets and restaurants for the new season. We’ve come at the right time for it all to be friendly and convenient but for the beaches to be empty enough to enjoy the paradise for what it is.
I brave the shark steak (fresh) at the “Lake Paradise” which turns out to be absolutely gorgeous. I’m well impressed but Lizzie still thinks it’s a bit fishy. We find a handy English book swapping service so trade our well-read and well-travelled volumes for fresh challenges. The time passes quite slowly when just relaxing in a place and the pressure to move on is gone. The feet are itchy but it’s a pleasant way to end the holiday.

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